As one sun sets a brighter one rises

I left Thailand but Thailand never left me. I wear my thai pants everywhere and I bite back so many “This one time in Thailand…” stories so I don’t sound like that ‘Gap Yah’ kid.

The summer of 2013 was a nice one, the soundtrack of my flashbacks consists of geckos chattering, tuk-tuks honking and monks chanting mixed with ‘Thrift Shop’ and ‘Get Lucky’. I had the time of my life counting fireflies, sheltered from a monsoon under a bamboo hut with my new friends, strangers I had met that day, laughing at each others accents and hiding from the co-ordinator whenever she came to yell at us for still being out, or being so loud (sorry Nikki… it was too much fun!).

During my time there I ate over 54 bowls of rice and had some of the most absurd, hilarious and enchanting moments- where do I start?

There’s the evening where torrential rain spontaneously burst upon the nightmarket and I, along with Trip, Aisling and Karan-my new friends found ourselves dancing with the locals until the monsoon weather stopped, an hour later and our clothes had soaked to our skin, rain leaking out of our shoes.
Or being woken up at 5am at the temple by teachers who, as it turned out, weren't joking about compulsory morning exercise for staff and pupils.
Last summer was something I laugh about a lot still. Because jumping in a waterfall in your best dress is a memory that can’t be over-replayed.

You can’t explore the world if you don’t open your front door. My experience only confirmed my initial optimism- that most people are good. The kindness shown to me- teachers giving me lifts, locals inviting us over for lunch and waitresses making note to stock my favourite cake as I told them I would return on the weekend, has made me determined that other young people should have the opportunity to experience a new culture while giving something back. So my advice to any young people reading this is to dream big, work hard and take the jump to go to far out places, because my only regret was that July had to end.

Those of you who read this blog last year will remember that while I was teaching English in Thailand my sister was doing an Internship in Washington DC (http://nikitagoestotheothersideofthepond.blogspot.co.uk/). This year…the adventure continues! It seems we will be spending the summer on different continents again, crossing over as I head over to the East Coast to teach Adventure at a summer camp and while I trace her footsteps she will continue mine, doing education and outreach work in China. (I made a cool map, above, which shows how we have crossed over!)

If you like travel journals, are thinking of being a camp counselor, here’s the blog I intend to keep while I’m over the Atlantic: http://i-like-to-be-in-america.blogspot.co.uk/

Thanks for reading guys, I feel like you've travelled with me, really. 1470 hits? Woah!

Georgia xx

This is what goodbye looks like

my scrapbooked journal: now an inch thick with travel stories

traveller bands: the yellow stolen from southern belle Lucy, the pink and yellow made for me by girls at the orphanage, the white and red, some string I found on Mod's porch and fashioned into a band

the brown books: messages from everyone at foundation. We all wrote in each others and vowed not to read them until on the plane home. They have quotes from funny happenings here, contact details and just funny things to read. There are so many beautiful and hilarious messages in those pages, testimony to my amazing and hilarious new friends!

thank you cards: from kids at my last placement: a reminder of the children, the lessons, the songs, the games...

I want to say thank you, lastly to so many people- those who started this journey with me- who sponsored me to come out here and the teachers and friends who inspired me to travel. Those who listened to this blog which now has almost 1000 views, that's so cool to see, thank you! And to the wonderful volunteers and travellers who I shared this experiences with, thank you guys. This summer has gone beyond words (coming from someone who writes a lot...). Anyone on this webpage must fall into one of those three categories, so THANK YOU ALL!

Lastly, my wish for anyone reading this page is that they travel. If you can't get on a plane this summer, get a bus and see your own hometown- go to new coffee shops, talk to strangers, get involved in local culture be it temples, theatres or bookstores nearby. Go out and see the world (well, a bit of it...)

Above 1: A quote I found on the wall in Peace Bar (Chiang Rai) and loved instantly
Above 2: Playing my favourite game- how many people can you fit round a table in Doi Chaang

 

Until next time
"Goodbye"
Georgia <3

Placement no.3: Teaching

My sister, Nikita, after viewing all the fun posts I blog about weekends and evenings here with other volunteers asked me "Do you ever work Georgia?".
Yes. Yes I do!

Yesterday's timetable went something like this-

10-11 Grade 1 Questions   Joy  Gabby  Axel
10-11 Grade 4 Questions  Georgia  Jane  Aisling
11-12 Grade 2 Questions   Jane  Georgia  Gabby
11-12 Grade 5 Questions   Aisling  Axel  Joy

LUNCH

1-2 Grade 3 Question  Gabby Aisling Joy
1-2 Georgia Axel Jane Free
2-3 Grade 6 Question   Jane  Aisling
2-3 Grade 1-3 Song and Game  Gabby Joy
2-3 Grade 4-6 Song and Game  Axel Georgia

5-6 Karen Hilltribe Class  Georgia Jane

I love so much that 'Song and Game' makes up part of the curriculum. As well as meditation and exercise. It's makes for more well rounded students :) This means all the those I learnt in girl guide campfires became vital knowledge. A musical theatre variation of 'When the saints go marching in' became a favourite of the hilltribe girls last night and Aisling and I just taught 'Ollie Ollie Ollie/Oi Oi Oi' to Kindergarten class. Considering the entire chant consists of only two words this was surprisingly difficult. But they loved it :D

I'm trying to work out how to put this photo into better resolution, it's Aisling and I with this morning's kindergarten class :)      (I'm in yellow)

 

Another highlight of this placement has to be playing football with the children. The heat can be intense and yesterday the field was swarming with dragonflies- it was like a horror movie- the field was thick with dragonflies. It was my team vs Axel's team. We're not sure which team won, given the fact we don't know which child was one which team and because there were too many dragonflies to see what was going on. Fun though. Because even in Thai humid heat wearing flip flop I'm good at football. If only because I have a 3ft advantage over my 8 year old teammates...

PS: I may update this post over the weekend with more photos ect. but I want to publish it while we have internet connection (it comes and goes very quickly)

Placement no.3

Above photo: Taken from the hammock. Not the best quality as I forgot my camera so had to use my laptop camera. Hopefully you can make it rice paddies with a mountain backdrop.

 

I'm staying at the Tom  Karen centre- a functioning building with electricity and mosquito-proof windows. We are spoiled (this isn't sarcasm. The place is lovely). The bathroom has a light, an flushing toilet, dry floor and TOILET ROLL. All of this made for a lot of gasping from us volunteers.

 

We teach at a hilltribe school from 9-3 and for an hour after school at the centre.

 

Mod, our host Mum is wonderful. Last night Aisling told her she'd never seen a firefly, Mod ran to get a bamboo mat for us all to sit on and turned off all the lights Ash and I insisted everyone turn off their phones so we sat in complete darkness (it's not like there's any street lighting here..).
Soon fireflies came some only a metre away from us. It's like zooming fairy lights in the sky.

 

Mod also came to our school during lunch hour today and explained she had cooked tofu sweet and sour for Axel and I as the school was making pork curry and she knew Axel was Jewish and I vegetarian. She made food and bought it in for us. I love Mod!
(She also said she would teach us all how to cook Thai food tonight :D )

 

This is Axel, by the way. He's French and when he says 'Hokey Pokey' it sounds like 'Le Honky Pokeny'. I laugh about this approximately ten times a day.

 

 

TEFL: Teaching English (as a) Foreign Language

My favourite moment of teaching was probably when I was teaching ‘Time’ and, in lieu of a board eraser I used my hand. I then wiped my hand across my cheek (on accident) leaving army stripes on my face. The kids found this hilarious. One boy took out his pen and drew stripes across his cheek too (Ha! I’m a trend setter!).

My teacher partner, Steph, commented “You look like GI Joe” while I got the class to chant (chanting is the preferred method of teaching in Thai schools. I don’t know how much I believe in it, but it’s not for me to challenge their methods. After a month here, hearing Buddhist chants in markets, temples and around I realise just how ingrained chanting is in the culture, it makes sense it’s the centre of education, though I think the students memorise things they can’t understand) “One forty five is quarter to two, Two forty five is quarter to three, Three forty five is quarter to four…” and they perfectly echoed the intonation in my British accent. I try to over-enunciate everything I say so they hear distinct vowel sounds. Basically, I speak with Received Pronunciation, think stereotypical ‘posh’ British- Hermione Granger or Mary Poppins.

So that’s my best TEFL moment. Looking like GI Joe, sounding like Mary Poppins, trying not to laugh as a chorus of Eton-sounding Thai children chanted number patterns.

 

Thai Culture

FOOD!

Not gonna lie. The thought of eating something other than rice has me excited all week long. Because there’s only so much comfort given by Oreos. So while people around me plan temples to visit and daytrips, I create menus in my head. Tonight I had a cocoa frappe (a week without dairy products made the arrival of a cream-laden chocolatley drink to my table worthy of whooping) tomato soup, fries (A CARB THAT ISN’T RICE!) and a Dragonfruit (try it) and Kiwi smoothie. I’ve literally been walking round the town making food plans for tomorrow “So breakfast can be pancakes and then it’ll be pizza for dinner…”.

On weekends we volunteers tend to gorge ourselves on western food- fries, pizza, milk, cheese, chocolate, waffles, pancakes. Obviously the rich, oily, sugariness came as a shock after a week of rice so a lot of us spend Saturday night feeling ill. But I have no regrets

This is half the volunteer group at Doi Chaang, the Asian version of Starbucks. So far I’ve had around thirty bowls of rice. Rice is good. Rice is constant. It’s the side dishes- the mushy dark green, foul looking vegetables that I’ve taken to avoiding. Ew. Hey, I tried them. My first week I tried every dish but I kept making this face, every meal. So I soon gave up.

 

PANTS!

I don't know if there's an actual name for these type of trousers but we all just call them pants. Perfect for this climate: loose fitting, pretty pattern cotton pants. We all wear pants. We all love pants. Pants! That is all.

 

SA WAT DE KA!

This is the standard Thai greeting (for girls, for guys it’s Sa Wat De Krup). You cannot buy anything at the shop, ask a question or say hello without saying SA WAT DE KA!  And wai-ing. (Smiles are also obligatory :D )

 

MOSQUITO NETS!

SQUAT TOILET!

Urgh. Not so glamorous. There’s not really much to say about squat toilets, except that they are everywhere and they are not my favourite thing.

 

MONKS!

The Monks here are just Thai men who happen to wear orange robes. They own iPhones, have tattoos and go to cafes around town.

 

SHOES!

In Asian culture it’s polite to take your shoes off before entering any temple, classroom ands some cafes.                   

 

THAI TIME!

Everything runs late. I call it “running on thai time” because if you arrange to meet up at 8.30 and show up at 9.15 you’re not considered late. Similarly, last week my first class of the day started at 9am but the school didn’t collect me until 9.15am.

Above: Chiang Rai clock tower that lights up on the hour

 SKIN WHITENING!

It's funny how at home everyone wants to be more tan and here girls lather themselves in skin whitening products...

 

STREET VENDORS!

For those brave enough (so far Emily and Sam) there is a variety of fried insects to buy and eat. That’s right. People PAY to eat bugs here. Mealworms and Crickets and other winged beetle things.

 I was quite excited about getting street food, which is world class here. Here I am, getting a dragonfruit smoothie. I think my excitement shows…

 

 

 



 

 

Pre Weekend Adventures!

Not only did we make our driver make 3 detours on the way back from placement so we could stop at the Dam, White Temple (again) and a 7/11 but we also made him camera man, shouting the one phrase that seems to transcend language barriers “PHOTO! PHOTO!” at him at each location. This is group B at the Dam.

 

Note: These photos on this blog really aren't the best. But this isn't facebook and I'm here to see the world, not for the world to see me...

We also spend a couple of hours in what I guess the closest thing a tiny village in the mountains has to a pub- a shop that sells alcohol and has bamboo mats to sit on. As Lisa noted, playing Chinese whispers with 10 different accents is hilarious.

 

On Saturday morning a group of us went to the Orphanage for a few hours just to play with the kids. It’s so cute- when the Songtao pulls up outside the building the kids (knowing the songtao is full of young adult foreigners carrying baskets with toys and games) start screaming. As soon as I got out of the songtao one girl ran over and grabbed my hand and pulled me into the building. The same thing happened to Nicole and Tom. Aww.

 

The kids were so sweet. I don’t know what I was expecting, I knew modern day orphanages aren’t like ‘Annie’ or workhouse style ‘Oliver!’ full of skinny, depressed children. It was also a great excuse to act like a kid- teaching the Hokey Pokey, making bracelets and “What’s the time Mr Wolf?” (in my lessons yesterday teaching ‘Time’ to Grade 3 we played “What’s the time Mr Snake” as I thought it was more culturally appropriate, paha.

This photo shows the gorgeous views and dust cloud experience of song tao travel (well, the romantic view. Others see it as dirt track riding down potholes without seatbelts or air conditioning…)

Tree Three Free

I’ve spent the last two days tutoring this girl for an English competition; she’s reciting the story of ‘The Three Little Pigs’. I think the volunteer who taught her numbers must have been Irish because she kept saying the ‘tree little pigs’ which was equally endearing and frustrating, it’s cute, but it’s wrong.

We chanted ‘Three, Three Three’
We counted ‘One, Two, THREE’
We walked outside, I pointed to a tree and demonstrated “This is Tree, you say Three”
All to no avail.

Then miracle struck, in the form of Youtube. I got up John Mayer’s ‘Free Falling’ because in the chorus there’s an on going repetition of ‘I’m FREE FALLING’ and the ‘free’ is the same sound used for ‘three’ so I played that on loud and she started singing ‘FREE FALLING, NOW I’M- FREE FALLING NO-OW’ with John Mayer and I (paha!).
And suddenly, after two days of wanting to head desk, she could pronounce ‘Three’.

I took a shameless selfie just after that moment. Here’s us, after singing John Mayer (for totally academic purposes) :P

 

Open your eyes and the world will open up to you

Note: This blog is basically yesterday's journal typed up with some photos slotted in because I know people back home like to 'see' stuff. I'm having a great time, but I want this blog to be a real reflection of this experience- not all saccharine and twee. So I'll leave the stories of massages and gold temples for another blog. Here's a very different story-

"I knew I was volunteering in a third world country. But the poverty is hard to understand. I was angry at first to see skinny cats wander round the foundation. I pointed this out to Momo and she said “that’s what a cat’s supposed to look like Georgia, that’s how they look in India too; you feed them too much in England”. And I wonder which is true?

Then there’s the stories Thai staff told us about stray dogs in Chiang Rai getting driven to Vietnam and sold as meat. Wait, what? Cute fluffy stray dogs… but then I remembered horsemeat and Tesco and I wonder just how similar or different the East is from the West.

We were told in Orientation that we’ll be teaching in the poorest parts of the country. You don’t see that when the classrooms I teach in are pastel painted and decorated with children’s work and paper flowers. But the kids sleep on blankets on the floor in their homes and the nearby stream I’ve seen the hilltribe kids play, bathe and dive in is a murky brown. It could hold any number of diseases or snakes. But they are happy.

It’s hard to say what I really want to say here. It’s fascinating, for sure, this world so far from home. And weirdly, I’ve felt calm all the time I’ve been here- I’m happy to leave all my valuables in the back of a taxi for the day and trust the driver will return when we phone him, or dance in smoky clubs all night with people I met that morning.
If that’s one thing I’m learning, it’s that people are people. And however crazy it sounds, trust everyone you meet, everywhere you go; you’ll never be lost, alone or bored."

 

 

Weekend Adventures!

We get time in the evenings and weekend to do what we like. It’s fun- the girls on my last placement were English, Irish, American, Australian, New Zealand and India so dinnertimes sitting round talking about gun crime felt like a UN meeting with all our different accents. We’ve been visiting 7/11’s (like a corner shop) and stocking up on oreos and things. Oreo is now a food group in my diet.

 Visiting the White temple (Chiang Rai). It is, like it's name suggests, a white temple.

 The Night Bazaar in Chiang Rai. Here's where I bought some pants we all wear out here and it's full of Asian food to try (Sam, Lisa and I got some deep fried banana. You should try it)

 Lilly and I out in Chaing Mai (everyone went out to celebrate Kate's 20th birthday). I didn't know the cocktail matched my dress until it came over. Cute!

We stayed out until 3am. I told Kate in Britain it's still technically her birthday so we should keep celebrating. So we all (Josh, Tom, Alex, Martin, Lauren, Kate, Lucy, Laura, Arthur and I've forgotten a name...) went to nightclubs and rain dances in the street.

 10 of us in a songtao (pronounced song-toe). You can also have two people hang off the back on rails. There's no safety standards in Asia.

 

Behold: This weekend's hostel. It costs 400baht for two nights (almost £9! And it's gorgeous!)

My Senior Prom Night

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ytBR7ET_6uU

Tonight, back in England it's my senior Prom.
The story Facebook shows is of girls in pretty dresses and boys in tuxes sitting in a decorated room.
I'm on a bamboo platform hut, totally exposed to the elements in rural east Asia. It's Tom, Andy, Sam, Jake and I. The conversation alternates from sociology and cultural politics to the stuff you would expect teenagers to speak about.

But tonight's incredible. So much more so than Prom could ever have been. Ever. Last week, these guys were strangers, tonight the only thing louder than the laughter is the rain- it's a monsoon. Torrential, deafening, but not cold, heaving streaming, pouring, like you've never seen it rain. So we sit for a few hours, until gone midnight on this platform. Listening to crickets. Watching fireflies.

I've never seen a firefly before.

 

First School Placement

Note: I’ve been on a homestay for a couple of days now, and everyone could get wifi except me! So sorry it’s taken so long. Blogging will probably be pretty erratic, even at the foundation it’s hard to get signal unless no one else is connected (never) so  I’ll have to wait until 1am or something…

On Wednesday morning a van pulled into the foundation to transport my group to Chiang Rai for our first placement. The man on the left of this photo with tasselled socks is the head teacher for the next few days he’s our go to guy, whenever any of us asks a question like “What time do we start teaching” he laughs and says “Don’t be serious!”, I think that’s his favourite phrase, in Thailand there’s never any schedule, you just have to ‘go with it’ and be prepared to tear up the lesson plans. He, like all his students is wearing a scout uniform as that’s what they wear on Wednesdays.
 We’re the first international student teachers the school has had and they were as excited we were there as we were to be there, which was really fun. The head teacher (his English name is Jimi) took a photo of us all in the van before we got to the school to send to the staffroom because everyone was really excited.

The staff room was gorgeous!

He gave us a tour of his school and all the students wai’d to us (a wai is when you put your palms together and bow your head, it is used as both a greeting and a sign of respect).  We are expected to wai back to teachers who have the same status as us but not to the children. All my wais to teachers were conducted with my water bottle between my palms. I’m not sure if this is allowed but I was thirsty and didn’t want to go anywhere without my water!

 

The Thai sense of humour is cute. They like to laugh. So I spend lessons pulling faces, dancing round and trying to get them to shout answers back. At first they shyly laughed but by the end they were all dancing, even the shy kids (special credits to the kids that did ‘Gangnam Style’ with me). That was funny. We can’t speak Thai and they speak little English so minutes were spent repeating “you have paper?” and waving paper in the air to no avail, but when I said ‘Gangnam Style’ every child knew to start horse hopping.

Classes!

 

Our third class of the day were impossibly shy, going round and asking their names was painful, I couldn’t hear most of them. So we made paper hats and everyone wrote their names on the hats.

While on the tour the head teacher pointed out one boy in the class and told the group he was a host family one pair would stay with. The little boy (he’s 8) then pointed at me and said something in Thai, roughly translating as “I want her!” all the teachers and students laughed, the joke was lost on us but later translated. So that’s how Chandra and I joined the Chutimadee family.

The 48 hour day, Villages and Campfire-ing

 

I planned to write about the journey here (I arrived in London at 9.30am and landed in Chiang Rai at 9.35am (Thai time). Which was confusing. Basically I spent 24 hours travelling across a time zone and arrived 5 minutes later, the next day. I didn’t sleep for 48 hours, I had breakfast-lunch-dinner-breakfast-lunch-dinner and then slept (for 6 hours). And then this morning I woke up (voluntarily) at 6am for a shower. A cold water shower. Hot water doesn't exist here.

Anyway, instead of writing about the foundation or things that happened over the 48 hours I wanted to write about this evening. There’s around 60 volunteers right now from all over the world: Ireland, India, America, Canada, France…and we’re all aged between 18-27 so it’s like being at a summer camp. Constant craziness and banter. It’s also hilarious the language differences between US/UK/Australian/Canadian English. We all keep laughing at each other and having to explain what was funny. Example-

Emily: I’m just going to nip to the toilet
Steph: You’re going to  do what to the toilet?

Steph: We just had our national celebrations
Emily: Independence day?
Steph:*laughs* No, it’s like Canada’s birthday?
Me: (deapan) What do you do, bake a cake?

Then we walked into the local village. The village shop is basically a load of products at the front of this womans house. Her cats and kids run around the ‘store’ (her house) this never fails to amuse me. It’s so far from CMK: the huge air conditioned shopping complex. She then told us if we turned right we could visit her hilltribe village, and that seemed to nice and offer to pass up. So four of us went.

We also befriended the cutest hilltribe kids who we played with for a while.

 

Tonight we decided to make a fire.
I love campfires. Campfires camping, campfires at parties. So when an older volunteer mentioned we could make campfires whenever we wanted I was literally like-

 

 

The foundation is located between all these hills covered in lush green jungle so it’s the most beautiful place to be. It’s superhumanly beautiful: lightning on the hillside, dragonflies and twenty teens and twenty-something's sitting on logs under the stars. We could literally be the advert for a travel brochure. Then MoMo got out her Ukulele so we all sang (cumbaya style) 'I'm Yours' and 'The A Team' and roasted bananas (you don’t get marshmallows here. You can't get anything sugary in Thailand it seems, but that’s a whole other blog!).